Rolex Production Dates - Serial Numbers

The serial number of a Rolex is located between the lugs at the 6' position. It is also listed on the certificates Rolex issues.

Starting in 1987, the serial numbers were prefixed with a letter (eg. S612345 was produced in 1993).

R:1987
L:1988
E:1990
X:1991
N:1991 (Nov)
C:1992
S:1993
W:1994
T:1996
U:1997 (Aug)
A:1998 (Nov)
P:2000 (Jan)
K:2001 (Sep)
Y:2002 (Sep)
F:2003 (Sep)

Chronograph / Chronometer

A chronograph is a watch that has a stopwatch function. Typically, the top pusher will start and stop the chronograph. The bottom pusher will reset it. The chronograph generally can not reset in the running state. Special Flyback models allow the chrono to be reset at any time.

A chronometer is watch that has passed a series of tests, and is a superior timekeeper. Many watchmakers will put their movements through this test to illustrate their accuracy. The dial will typically have the word "Chronometer" or "Chronometre" on the dial.

To become a chronometer, the watch movement must pass 15 days of severe tests. The accuracy of the movement is checked in 5 different positions at varied temperatures. This simulates conditions under which the watch might be worn. The watch must average between +6 and -4 seconds per day in order to earn the certification.

If a watch is described simply as a "chrono", it is generally safe to assume it is a chronograph.

Avoid Getting Ripped Off

The most obvious way to guarantee you are getting an authentic watch is to visit an authorized dealer of the brand. These authorized dealers can not offer the value from reduced pricing that many consumers look for. Also, the industry is known for high employee turn-over, so many of these salespeople are not as well educated as they should be for if you are paying retail.

Many people are aware of much better deals that can be found on authentic Swiss watches on the Internet... But that can be scary since you usually must pay for the watch ahead of time, sight unseen.

Message forums, auctions, and on-line dealer websites are the 3 primary sources for finding deals on the web.

On dealer websites, look for things like testimonials, site reviews, and ratings such as those found on E-Bay or Pricegrabber. Another tip is to use Who Is to investigate the domain name or Alexa to check the page rank.

Message forums are generally individuals selling their watches. Some of the best prices can be found here, but these sellers are usually the most difficult to build trust with. Also, these individuals will generally need payment with some sort of cash equivalent, so there is no recourse from the credit card companies if the watch does not show up... Or if it arrives in a condition other than they stated... Or if it's the wrong watch all together.

The message forums are a good place to find respectable dealers, or post a question about a dealer you are interested in dealing with. Most of the on-line dealers we are aware of have been selling on the web for more than 5 years now. They should be able to offer references. Rotating inventory and a regularly updated site are also good signs. Watch out for sites that have pictures that appear they were scanned from a catalog. Unique pictures of the watches, from different angles shows what you will actually receive if you order from them... And that they actually have the watch in their possession. Another thing to watch out for is pieces with the serial number removed. We have more information on that practice below.

One thing to keep in mind, the credit card companies are on the consumer´s side. If there is a genuine dispute, you can generally get the funds credited back to your account.

Different Types of Movements Available

Automatic Watches: A rotor on the movement keeps the watch powered by the motion on your wrist. If worn everyday, an automatic watch will run for life (or until it breaks). Automatic watches generally have 100´s of parts inside their small cases. If an automatic watch has stopped, it is best to wind it via the crown 20-30 times to give it a good kick start. If not wound manually, wrist motion is generally not enough to keep it running accurately.

Quartz Watches: The quartz movement became common for watches in the 70´s. They are powered by a battery and need little maintenance except for a battery swap every year or so. They are highly accurate compared to mechanical watches.

Manual Wind Watches: A manual wind watch must be wound every one or two days by the crown in order to run. Even with that perceived inconvenience, they are still produced in Switzerland and can even be found on watches well over $5000. Many collectors find them highly desirable. It is easier to make a thinner and lighter watch without the self-winding mechanism. Some unique movements can reserve up to 8 days of power and will usually have a power-reserve indicator on the dial.

Operating an Automatic Watch

With a new watch, wear it every day for at least two weeks.

Wind the watch first, and then set the hands with the crown.

Wind an automatic watch 30 to 40 times to power the main spring. This helps guarantee optimum torque.

If you wear the watch daily, and only take it off at night, there should be no need to wind the watch.

Note: Many watches have a screwdown crown that must be released.

Watches Company Owners

Audemars Piguet

Independent

Breitling

Independent

Bulgari (Italy)

Bulgari

Daniel Roth

Gérald Genta

Fossil (USA)

Zodiac

Grovana AG

Revue Thommen

LVMH (France)
Louis Vuitton - Moët - Hennessy

Chaumet

Fred

Tag Heuer

Zenith

OMAS

Dior

The Movado Group (USA)

Concord

Esquire

Movado

Ebel

Patek Philippe

Independent

Richemont - Vendome Luxury Group

A. Lange & Sohne

Baume & Mercier

Cartier

Dunhill

IWC

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Montblanc

Officine Panerai

Piaget

Vacheron Constantin

Van Cleef & Arpels

Sandoz

Parmigiani Fleurier

Scheufele (Germany)

Chopard

Sowind Group

Daniel JeanRichard

Girard-Perregaux

Swatch Group

Blancpain

Breguet

Calvin Klein

Certina

Eta (Movements)

Hamilton

Glashütte Original (Germany)

Jaquet Droz

Mido

Longines

Omega

Rado

Swatch

Tissot

Union Glashütte (Germany)

Stelux Holdings Intl. (Hong Kong)

Cyma

Universal Geneve

Wilsdorf Foundation

Tudor

Rolex

Watch Forums

Listed below are useful watch forums. They contain discussions between members, articles, photographs, and plenty of watch related material.

Poor Man's Watch Forum
Watch-U-Seek
Timezone
Watchnet
The Purists
Equation of Time

Breaking In A New Watch

Most new mechanical watches will go through a short burn-in period. Nothing special needs to be done by the owner, the watch should take care of itself...

Before a watch makes it to your wrist, it has likely been sitting in the jewelers store or a warehouse. Oils and lubricants can pool in certain areas. It takes 1 or 2 months for the oils to be distributed to their proper locations. The moving of the parts will also wear away and microscopic imperfections that most parts have. After a couple of months the watch will be properly broken in and run with more precision.